5 Days at Sea

NOTE:  For sailing pix see Sailing Fiji album; for snorkeling pix see Underwater album

March 22 - RAIN!!@#!!!

Absolutely pouring down tropical rain. We were not happy campers. Laying in bed thinking that we had it so good for so long, we were probably due this miserable weather. Only now we are being picked up at 10am by a sailboat. The weather tamed somewhat after breakfast. We packed up and made a decision that no matter what we were not staying at Club Fiji a minute longer than necessary. Valentino showed up with his boat right on time and we watched as he brought the dinghy to shore. The three of us stood in the rain and talked about our options, of which there were few. In the end, Geoff and I said "what the hell" and got on the dinghy with ALL our stuff. On board was Anna, a very hard working Fijian first mate. It look some time to get organized - space is very tight. This is a 36ft catamaran. So we squeezed into one hull and they have the other along with the kitchen. One thing for sure, we were not sleeping in the MRI-like bunks - rain or no rain it was up on deck for us.

Valentino motored out to sea searching for the sun. Not only was it raining but there was no wind to sail. Geoff & I started to feel more relaxed the further we got from shore. By the time we reached the reef, the sun was out and things were starting to look up. Donning our masks and fins, we jumped in to one of the most beautiful spots I have seen. The coral is absolutely vibrant. This reef had basically small fish, but very abundant and colorful. Definitely got the feeling that you were in a tank. The water was a perfect temperature and color. Valentino had lunch ready by the time we got back to the boat. Now, we were all smiles that we made the right decision to come out. This was great. As soon as we settled down for lunch, other boats started arriving taking the tourists from the big hotels out to the reef. Boy, it felt really good to have our own private experience.

We watched one boat in particular. No tourists, just workers being very busy. Then they set up a table in the middle of the sand bar. Next came the tablecloths and coolers. It looked liked the makings of a photo shoot. The boat took off and left the other guy manning the table. As the boat passed, he waved to us and yelled "It's for the travel agents." Apparently one of the real la-di-dah resorts was going all out to impress these folks. Just as we finished lunch, we watched a squall coming across and then the wind picked up. We scurried to clear the dishes and Valentino and Anna picked up anchor. We headed into Musket Cove where we moored for the night. Musket Cove is a yachty type resort. You can join for $5 a year and use all the facilities. We all went on shore. G & I played in the pool for a bit enjoying our tropical drinks. Had a nice shower and made our way to the Island Bar where things were just starting to happen. We met up with Valentino and Anna who were chatting up with the locals. And then the Travel Agents arrived (by this time saying travel agents was beginning to sound like a curse word). They were given free food and entertainment screened off from the real folk. Obviously, the resort wanted to show them what their clients would get, except for the fact that the clients NEVER get this kind of treatment ever. It was all pretty amusing to us. We met some real interesting folks and had a good time talking and munching on the leftovers. They ate the chicken wings but left the Indian dipping stuff that was out of this world.

It was dark by the time we made our way back to the mooring. We watched the stars as Valentino cooked dinner. We continued to be entertained by the travel agents party that went much later than we would have liked. Dinner was a simple pasta which was simply fabulous. We brought the sleeping mats up on deck and settled in for a star-filled sleep.

I awoke at sunrise, which is about 7am and here I sit typing watching Geoff still sleeping. For now the skies are clear, the sun is up and the wind should be right for sailing. We are ready for it. Did I mention that we are having a really good time and so glad we didn't abort this plan. There was even talk about chucking the whole idea and going home. As soon as we got into the sunshine yesterday, Valeninto said "When angels travel, good things happen." Nice expression.

March 23 - Coral for days!

Took off right after breakfast and headed out far and away from anything and anyone. Our first stop was at Mana Sandbar, which is just what it says a big sandbar by the reef in the middle of the sea. Saw a lot more coral today and some pretty cool fish. Geoff spotted a reef shark but he wouldn't sit still to have his photo taken. Back on the boat for some guacamole and chips and moved onto Vunibandra and anchored. Valentino cooked some dynamite eggplant with salad for lunch and then it was back in the water. We explored the reef on the left first. Here the coral was huge and brightly colored. Valentino said that if we spot a large clam to let him know and he will come out and get it for tomorrow's lunch. Geoff and I came up empty handed on that one. We napped and read and basically didn't do much of anything. Eventually, I convinced Anna to come snorkel with us to find the clam. So the three of us jumped in and after about 15 minutes - Viola Clam!!! I was on my way back to the boat when I heard the two of them hooting and hollering. I turned back to join them. Valentino brought the dinghy out and dove in for the clam. Looks like it will be just fine for ceviche.

Lobster for dinner. Absolutely delicious. Cleaned up and settled in for the night.

March 24 - Sails Up!

3am and there was a lot of ruckus on board. The rain started and then Valentino got up and looked across the sea and yelled "Oh shit, here it comes!" Anna and Valentino quickly covered up the boat where we were sleeping and secured everything. The rain stopped but the wind was very strong and we rocked and rolled all night. This morning the skies are totally clear and we have a southeasterly - which V says is good for sailing. Yippee!!

We sailed over to the Octopus Resort which has its own reef right in front. This is the place where G & I almost booked for after our sail. Very expensive and we were so glad we didn't book it after having seen the place. The reef, however, was worth the visit. As soon as the tourist ferry pulled up we pulled out and moved on up the chain of the Yasawa Islands. After anchoring, we ate our clam ceviche with kasava (a root vegetable) and Valentino made a terrific chicken schnitzel with salad. We were way over stuffed when we dove into the water for a late afternoon snorkel. The coral here is huge. I really hope the pictures do it some justice.

We were fortunate to see a sunset tonight. We had another Jerry B. ceremony as the sun was setting. Valentino made a toast and threw some red wine in the water. He is happy to have a loved one in his waters to watch over his journeys. He suggested Jerry might have been responsible for our luck with the weather and good sailing. It's a nice thought.

Dinner was a simple penne with prawns and lots of spice. During the night Geoff & I awoke to a lightning storm just over the island down from us. What a show! Good for us it never reached here. We rocked gently back to sleep.

March 25: Simply Paradise/Kava with the King

Our days filled with sailing and snorkeling and our nights filled with good food and conversation, we are having a very special experience here. Plus, on top of everything, there are no bugs!!! I thought by now I would be eaten alive, but not a one of anything that bites out here.

We took the dinghy over to Manta Ray Resort after breakfast. Valentino needed to replenish the ice supply and we snorkeled around the marine reserve. More fish than we have seen recently. We walked the beach for a while and then joined the group by the tiki bar for refreshments. We made our way back to the boat and off we went to island. By now, we have seen several of the resorts (if not up close than at least from the sea) that I had researched before coming. So far, we are not upset in the least that we are not staying out here. This afternoon - more snorkeling and more beach combing. We are spicing it up later with a visit to the Village of SoSo on Navarati Island.

Kava is a ceremonial tea made from a root. When visiting the village and the king or chief, one brings an offering of Kava root. We brought our Kava and were fortunate to be able to drink with the king of the village. Geoff and I had a little tour of their church and school and then rejoined the group under the shade for the sharing of the Kava. We also were able to see how they grind it up. They grind it for about an hour and then put it inside a cloth and wash it in the water until it is the right shade to drink. When ready, the king is served first in his own bowl, then one bowl is passed around to all. I think Kava is used in the States as a homeopathy remedy. It calms the nervous system down and makes you feel all around good. When filling the bowl, they ask if you want low tide or high tide. I joined Anna and Valentino in the tsunami category and Geoff remained somewhere around low tide just to be on the safe side. It was a great visit and we were lucky enough to be able to go with the local folk and not with the tourist group. No one came running out with their basket weaving and stuff to sell. We had a wonderful cultural exchange even though we had to break through the language barrier. Anna helped a great deal with that.

One more thing, learned from the men that the American Rugby team is in the finals this weekend. Valentino says the marina next door to our resort is owned by the guy who owns Redbull and he is throwing a big party. Sounds like we will be in the thick of it. Should be a lot of fun, Tomorrow is our last day on the boat


March 26 Sailing Home

Put up all the sails today and headed back to the main island. Very long ride stopping once for a quick snorkel at Bounty Island. We were headed to the dock where Valentino stores his boat. The owner is a big guy named John, who used to be the "face of Fiji" in all the commercials. Arriving back at the dock around 7ish, Valentino's girlfriend, Yvonne, was there to greet us. She is an artist on the island and sells her stuff all over. We might meet up with them before we leave and see her wares. After some chit chat and cold drinks, G and I got into the cab and headed for the First Landing Resort. Of course, it poured most of the way there.

Arriving in the dark anywhere is never a good idea. We were tired and cranky and our bodies were still rocking from the boat. The resort is very nice, the room is quite beautiful with lots of space and a gorgeous beachfront view. But they are refurbishing the pool, which is the one thing I wanted to do. I had enough salt water for a while and just wanted to sit around a nice cool pool and try to get my equilibrium back. They really should have mentioned this at the time of booking.

Took a shower and went out to check out the place. Had a pizza at the bar and watched the rugby matches. These are the primary games for the big series being held in Hong Kong. US is doing really well and is expected to play Fiji tomorrow. We talked with a young couple from New Jersey and a couple of Aussies. Got back to the room around 11 and was happy to be in a real bed.

March 27 - On the move

Was told that because of the pool construction, they are busing people down to the next resort, Anchorage. So we went down to take a look and booked a villa down there. Much quieter and half the price with a pool that works! Don't know if they have wifi, if not the next post will be from the airport in Fiji waiting for take-off. Don't plan on doing much but sit around the pool drinking pina coladas and watching the rugby tournament.

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